Sailing to Amorgos, Greece: The Island of the "Big Blue"

Dear Traveler,

On a hot summer morning at the end of August, our Star Clipper Ship docked in the Katapola port on the island of Amorgos, the easternmost of the Cyclades group. Somewhat isolated, Amorgos wasn't on the traveler's map until the late 80's when it became a filming location of "The Big Blue" -a freestyle diving movie featuring the french star Jean Reno.

Cyclades Island Map Lonely Planet

Compared with its trendy neighbors, such as Santorini and Mykonos, Amorgos attracts with its rough beauty and its peaceful and spiritual vibe. The mountainous relief of the island is hilly and steep with narrow and windy roads. The lack of hotel infrastructure (the majority of accommodations are room rentals concentrated around the port) draws low maintenance hikers, herb-pickers, and divers.

We made a new friend at Asset Car Rental

Amorgos is big enough that, in order to explore it, you will need to rent a scooter or a car. If you are not experienced with driving a scooter and navigating through island roads, consider your safety and rent a car. After research, my husband and I choose Asset Car Rental, a local establishment, located right in the Katapola Port. The daily charge was 45 Euro for a car and 15 Euro for a scooter.

We started making our way to the east, aiming to get to the island's most treasured historical site- the Monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa (The Virgin Mary), a whitewashed edifice carved into the sheer cliff face dating back to the 11th Century.

During our drive to the Monastery, breath-taking vistas of sparkling and intense blue unfolded in front of us. Sheer cliffs fall into the sea and in the far distance, one can spot secluded beaches accessible only via boat. At the midway point, we stopped at Chora, the main town at Amorgos to grab a bite. It was lunchtime and the small town was sleepy. The locals were taking an afternoon siesta. 

Making slowly our way through the narrow streets, we accidentally discovered a little culinary gem. A contrast with the quiet town, Jazzmin Café was bustling with activities. This locally-run, bohemian-style café is the go-to place for farm-to-table lunch during the day and live music entertainment at night. The second-floor terrace is the most desirable seat in the house offering a panoramic view of the island and the Aegean Sea. The yogurt smoothie is highly recommended!

Jazzmin Cafe Terrace, pic by Amorgos Island Magazine

Refreshed, we continued our drive to the Monastery of the Virgin Mary, which was an adventure on its own. The only way to reach its holy doors is to climb about 300 steps. Respecting the Greek Orthodox religion rules, the requirements for entry are strict. One must dress properly- wearing long pants/skirts and cover shoulders to be admitted inside. The edifice has 3 levels connected with a narrow marble staircase, so once admitted inside, be prepared for more climbing.
Travel Tip: If you are visiting the monastery, bring a long layer of clothes

Monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa

After 15 minutes of tiresome climb, we finally reached the chapel level. Surprisingly, the local monks welcomed us with a glass of cold water and home-made local cherry liquor.
Views from the top-most balcony were simply breathtaking. The secluded beach right below the monastery and the gleaming waters of the endless Aegean Sea are hard to describe, leaving long-lasting memories. The divinity of this place is evident from the moment you set foot on this holy ground.

Breathtaking views from the top balcony 

It was already past midday and we were ready to check the local beaches. 

Travel Tip: Amorgos beaches are rocky and pebbly with an almost non-existent sand area.

 Located right below the monastery, arguably Agia Anna beach is the most famous one, however, we took the advice of our contact at Asset Car Rental, and decided on Mouros Beach, located on the southeast side of the island. To access the beach, one must follow a narrow path with descending steps-one of the most beautiful and scenic anywhere in the Aegean. The beach has crystal-clear water, underwater caves and attracts primarily local tourists (some of which are clothing-optional). There is a small tavern/cafe right next to the parking lot where you can order drinks, refreshments, and if you're early, even some tasty sandwiches to enjoy with the views from their terrace, or once you're down on the beach itself. In the late afternoon, sadly, we had to make our drive back to Katapola port. Amorgos captured our hearts. Amor, Amorgos!

Mauros Beach

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